saturday surf trip

friday was an nearly unbearably hot day, but i can't say i minded since i was laying on the beach all afternoon. for reference, however, at 8:30pm it was 33 degrees celcius ( about 92 degrees fahrenheit). so you'd think after a hot day like that, the weekend would be more of the same - no. the weather's a fickle thing here. saturday morning we get up and it's overcast, raining, and probably in the teens. but a little chilly weather is not enough to stop us from going on our surf trip!
this guy, tim - a pharmacy student from delaware/casual surfer/ beach lifeguard, offered to take andrea (a roommate) and i surfing for the day. we were suppose to leave at 8:30am, but in true aussie style didn't actually get out of the door until about 10. he rented a little hatch-back toyota corolla and took us up to tarquay (the begining of the great ocean road). in addition to the bad weather, there was no swell anywhere near by, so the waves were pretty lame. i wasn't too bothered by this since i've never surfed before, but it had to be a bit of a bummer for him.
the people in tarquay sent us to barwon heads to get the best waves, and there andrea and i rented a surf board to share for the afternoon.
we spent the first two hours trading off but to no avail. i got to my knees and rode a few waves that way, but never actually stood up. a thunderstorm rolled in so we took a break from the water and got some lunch. technically our board was due back at the end of those two hours, but when we told 'ross' (the surf shop guy) that we hadn't gotten up yet, he basically called us pansies and told us we weren't allowed back until we actually surfed.
we headed back to 13th beach and tried again. andrea didn't give it another go - her arms had given up on her, but tim and i forged on for another 2 hours. first try i finally got to my feet and was pretty stoaked about it. i never quite got the hang of catching the wave and getting to my feet in time to actually ride one in, but i think i have the basics down. half way through the second session my arms gave out. it's a funny feeling when your mind is saying 'push yourself up' but your body doesn't go ANYWHERE. i enventually regained some strength, but man was i sore the next day.
andrea and i have orders to do push-ups every day and give it another go. i'm just excited that i got up at all, but i'll definitely try again.
after we finished surfing we drove up to bell's beach. you might know it from the reference in point break with keanu reeves and patrick swayze. it was very flat the day i saw it, but apparently it gets some 'sick swells' near easter with 15' waves. that's when and where they hold the rip curl pro - and professional surf competition. i plan on making it back that way around then to see the pros at work.
cross that adventure off the list of things to do. surf's up, dude!


